Sunday, September 04, 2016

Cotton cheesecake comparisons

This Japanese cheesecake has several names: cotton cheesecake, souffle cheesecake, or simply Japanese cheesecake.

There are broadly 3 main methods of making this. Below are the oft-cited sources that various bloggers adapt from.

1) Uses bain marie with cake flour and corn flour

a) 250gm cream cheese in 2 loaf tins but 100ml milk
http://en.christinesrecipes.com/2011/02/japanese-cheesecake-fluffy-creamy.html

b) Same ingredients and method as Christine (suspiciously looks like a copy, but who copied whom?) but a relatively smooth top using 250g cream cheese for 8 to 9" pan
http://www.bakingtaitai.com/2013/07/japanese-cotton-cheesecake.html
Tested here

c) 250g gm cream cheese in 8" tin, 100ml milk
http://ieatishootipost.sg/japanese-cheesecake-recipe/
: also based on Diana
: using 200 deg C for a short time but cooking in residual heat for very long
Tested here

d) 250g cream cheese in 8 (lined) or 9" (unlined) tin, 100ml milk
http://rasamalaysia.com/japanese-cheesecake-recipe/2/
(quotes Little Teochew (link isn't open to public) and Diana's cookbook http://www.dianasdesserts.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/recipes.recipeListing/filter/dianas/recipeID/2312/Recipe.cfm
: leaves in oven to cool

e) 250gm cream cheese in 8" tin but 5 egg yolks
http://nasilemaklover.blogspot.com.au/2016/03/japanese-cheesecake.html
: based on an improved version from Diana and uses 1 egg less

2) Uses more cream cheese, likely to be heavier. However, uses beater/hand beats without bain marie.
a) 400g cream cheese in 9" pan: http://www.justonecookbook.com/japanese-cheesecake/

b) 100g cream cheese and sour cream in a 5.9" pan from Cooking with Dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbaP5MoLIHk

3) Souffle (instead of 'creamy') Jap cheesecake wh uses less cream cheese
a) Scalded milk but also adapted from Diana
140g cream cheese for 7" pan
http://kitchentigress.blogspot.com.au/2012/10/cotton-soft-japanese-souffle-cheesecake.html
- Her cake as the smoothest top so she must be doing something right!
- removes cake immed from oven

b) 125g cream cheese with 5 egg yolks in 8" tin
http://kitchentigress.blogspot.com.au/2012/10/cotton-soft-japanese-souffle-cheesecake.html
: also based on Diana

4) Jiggly cheesecake that cooks over flame instead of bain marie
Viral video of a jiggly cheesecake that uses 13 egg whites and only 8 yolks for 9" lined tin, and cooked over a flame instead of bain marie. However, several reviewers say that it often comes out undercooked at the bottom and tastes too eggy, not enough cheese.
https://www.facebook.com/BuzzFeedVideo/videos/2301495576657978/

One Buzzfeed tester updated the recipe:
130ml milk
200g cream cheese
100g butter
5 yolks
1 tsp vanilla
11 whites (whipped to soft peaks)
¼ tsp cream of tartar
60g flour
60g cornstarch
160g sugar
handful of raisins
Bake: 70 mins at 300 deg F and 5 mins at 350 deg F to brown the top

5) Uses double cream
a) with cake and corn flours
http://www.ricenflour.com/recipe/how-to-make-japanese-cotton-cheesecake-recipe/
- need to double the recipe for a 9" pan
- uses 250g cream cheese
Tested here

b) uses normal flour
https://spoonuniversity.com/recipe/japanese-cheesecake-that-fluffy-and-rich-in-flavor
- for 9" pan
- uses 400g cream cheese

6) And finally, tips and tricks
a) http://runawayrice.com/desserts/cotton-cheesecakejapanese-cheesecake/
- Take out cheese and butter 2 hours beforehand from the fridge
- Take out eggs 1 hours before hand. Eggs separate best when cold, but beat up best at room temp.

b) http://ieatishootipost.sg/japanese-cheesecake-recipe/
- use caster, not fine sugar
- fresh eggs beat up better
- use light colour pans (not dark colour ones) which bake more evenly and don't cause the cake to peak then fall
- tap the cake tin a few times with batter on the countertop to dispel the big bubbles
- prefers to use non-removable bottom and line the sides with butter and flour instead of parchment

c) http://happyhomebaking.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/japanese-souffle-cheesecake.html
- remove from oven immediately but like KT, also uses less cream cheese (125g)
- Drop hot cake immediate from the oven on counter top to dispel hot hair
- Unmould the cake immediately instead of leaving it otherwise the paper-like top sticks to the plate, fingers, etc. Also, condensation forms and gives it a soggy bottom.

d) http://www.dianasdesserts.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/bakingtips.cheesecakes/cheesecakes.cfm
- Pretty much covered by other bloggers but she notes that optimal baking temp is 300 to 325 F (about 148 to 162 C)
- Advocates keeping foil on all the way into the fridge and only removing the tin and foil after it has refrigerated for at least 6 hours.
- Only unmould the next day. (Keep the base on for serving)

e) http://beautybling.yuku.com/topic/1313/Fantastic-Cheesecake-Tips#.V_mn2TKr3BI
- Mix but don't over mix. If using a beater, mix only for 30 seconds for each step, then stop and scrape down the bowl. Mix only until absorbed.
- Line the bottom of the pan with parchment but grease the sides.
- After the batter has been poured in, run a skewer in a zigzag manner to break up the bubbles. Break up big bubbles on the surface by piercing them.
- Water in water bath should come up to about half but no more than 2/3 of the side of the tin. You want to bake, not steam the cake.
- Don't open door in first 30 - 45 minutes or it will crack.
- After the first 10 minutes of cooling in the oven, run a knife around the edges to release. Otherwise as it cools, it will stick to the sides and cause cracks.
- Doneness: Don't over bake! It will continue to cook in the residual heat in the oven and as it cools. It will be slightly wobbly but will firm up in the fridge. Bake only until the outer edges are firm and have a dull look, but the centre is still a bit wobbly but not wet and has a slight sheen. Shake the pan to check that the centre is still a bit wobbly. If the whole surface ripples and shakes like jelly. it's not done.
- For a nice brown, bake at 500 F (260 C!) for 10 minutes then reduce to 300 F (148 C) for the remaining time.
- If there are any cracks/tears, run a heated but wet icing spatula to repair.
- Chill for at least 12 hours or it may still shift and collapse.

f) http://www.ricenflour.com/recipe/how-to-make-japanese-cotton-cheesecake-recipe/
Troubleshooting of cheesecake fails : does not rise, eggy smell, forms a waste, shrinks in the oven or shrinks outside.

g) https://cookpad.com/us/recipes/148168-moist-and-fluffy-souffle-cheesecake
Troubleshooting: claims that a denser pudding like layer at the bottom is due to leaving the meringue and yolk batter unmixed for too long. But I don't think this was true for me.
- suggests spreading butter and powdered sugar on the parchment

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